26 August
Relaxing morning, although we did arise early so that we could pack away the trailers before it got too hot again. We decided to spoil ourselves with a relaxing breakfast at the Dusty Bar. We discussed our future travel plans over breakfast.
Because we had come across several vehicles that had sustained damage on the Kalumburu road and we had also heard stories of others that had experienced a similar fate we made the decision not to head north through Drysdale to Kalumburu and the Mitchell plateau and falls. We felt it was a sensible decision as we didn’t want to compromise the remainder of the trip to Broome and Cape Leveque if we did sustain major damage. Sad becasue we were looking forward to exploring that area, but now we have a genuine excuse to come back, and in the cooler months too. the temperatures are already reaching 40 degrees and just too hot for enjoyment.
So continuing on along the Gibb River Road now.........
I am sitting in the car with the computer purched on my lap (it is a laptop after all!!) on the top of a ridge just outside Home Valley - the last spot with a signal before Derby.
Thursday, August 26, 2010
A green grass campsite
25 August
Up before light this morning so that we could get packed up before it got too hot again and so that we could get to Zebedee Springs before all the crowds. We weren’t as early at the springs as we had hoped but it was in fact perfect timing. A tour group was just leaving the area when we arrived there, so we had the whole springs to ourselves for about an hour.
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Our last stop in the park was at Emma Gorge. We probably did the walk into the gorge later in the day than was preferable as it was pretty hot, but it was still well worth it. Some very interesting wave rock specimens along the creek bed
and more refreshing pools at the end of the walk.
Picnic lunch at the resort there and then back onto the Gibb, crossing the Pentecost yet again with the ridges of the Cockburn ranges behind
and on to Home Valley for the night. What a place – we are actually camping on GREEN GRASS, what a respite from all the dust and dirt and dead grass we have been camping on.
They call it Home Valley Outback Oasis and an oasis it is. Quite a hub too, there was a wedding with the bride and groom coming down from Kalumburu and we also met a group cycling from Darwin to Broome that were camped here for the night. We nearly lost John who was sorely tempted to join them.
Up before light this morning so that we could get packed up before it got too hot again and so that we could get to Zebedee Springs before all the crowds. We weren’t as early at the springs as we had hoped but it was in fact perfect timing. A tour group was just leaving the area when we arrived there, so we had the whole springs to ourselves for about an hour.
l
Our last stop in the park was at Emma Gorge. We probably did the walk into the gorge later in the day than was preferable as it was pretty hot, but it was still well worth it. Some very interesting wave rock specimens along the creek bed
and more refreshing pools at the end of the walk.
Picnic lunch at the resort there and then back onto the Gibb, crossing the Pentecost yet again with the ridges of the Cockburn ranges behind
and on to Home Valley for the night. What a place – we are actually camping on GREEN GRASS, what a respite from all the dust and dirt and dead grass we have been camping on.
They call it Home Valley Outback Oasis and an oasis it is. Quite a hub too, there was a wedding with the bride and groom coming down from Kalumburu and we also met a group cycling from Darwin to Broome that were camped here for the night. We nearly lost John who was sorely tempted to join them.
El Questro
24 August
Up early to explore the park before it got too hot. 
The trail there passed through a deep narrow gorge where we had to rock hop along the creek bed to a beautiful clear pool where we swam with the fish 
A quick look at Jackaroos Waterhole and Moonshine Gorge on the way to Saddleback Ridge and lookout. This was along a rough and steep winding road to a viewing platform with magnificent 360 views of the park ranges and escarpments.
Back to camp for lunch, relax and a very refreshing swim in the river, before heading out again on further exploration of the park. This time up to Pigeon Hole lookout and walk along the ridge there for more fantastic views of the surrounding country side, 
Up early to explore the park before it got too hot.
First stop El Questro Gorge.
The trail there passed through a deep narrow gorge where we had to rock hop along the creek bed to a beautiful clear pool where we swam with the fish
A quick look at Jackaroos Waterhole and Moonshine Gorge on the way to Saddleback Ridge and lookout. This was along a rough and steep winding road to a viewing platform with magnificent 360 views of the park ranges and escarpments.
Back to camp for lunch, relax and a very refreshing swim in the river, before heading out again on further exploration of the park. This time up to Pigeon Hole lookout and walk along the ridge there for more fantastic views of the surrounding country side,
on to Chamberlain Gorge then to Branco’s Lookout along another steep rough track as the sun was setting. We were rewarded with spectacular views over Chamberlain Gorge, the Cockburn Ranges and the Homestead.
We were all so exhausted after such an active day and the heat that we went to bed early,
Finally the Gibb
23 August
Late start this morning as running repairs were required for the Ultimate outlet water tap.
We explored the Wyndham area first, checking out the port, the historic museum in the old courthouse and The Residency , the ruins of a house that was built for the magistrate in 1888 but was never occupied because of its remote location and fear of hostile aboriginals in the area
We drove out towards Diggers Rest to have a look at the Prison Tree
the Moochalabra Dam (the local area water supply) and the unusual aboriginal cave paintings depicting Wandjini figures ancestral rain spirits with distinctive halo like headdresses as well as mysterious Bradshaw paintings.
We then had to go back into Wyndham to get onto the Gibb River Road as the King River Road was closed. Finally we hve reached the Gibb River Road but what an anticlimax. The famous El Questro Wilderness Park was our first destination on the Gibb River Road and a lot of the road to there was surfaced!
We arrived at The Township of El Questro in the late afternoon fully expecting all the private campsites to be taken but we were in luck. Not only were they not all full but we managed to get a nice big one with plenty of shade, close to the river Pentecost. – No 15 Brolga for those that know El Questro
Late start this morning as running repairs were required for the Ultimate outlet water tap.
We explored the Wyndham area first, checking out the port, the historic museum in the old courthouse and The Residency , the ruins of a house that was built for the magistrate in 1888 but was never occupied because of its remote location and fear of hostile aboriginals in the area
We drove out towards Diggers Rest to have a look at the Prison Tree
the Moochalabra Dam (the local area water supply) and the unusual aboriginal cave paintings depicting Wandjini figures ancestral rain spirits with distinctive halo like headdresses as well as mysterious Bradshaw paintings.
We then had to go back into Wyndham to get onto the Gibb River Road as the King River Road was closed. Finally we hve reached the Gibb River Road but what an anticlimax. The famous El Questro Wilderness Park was our first destination on the Gibb River Road and a lot of the road to there was surfaced!
We arrived at The Township of El Questro in the late afternoon fully expecting all the private campsites to be taken but we were in luck. Not only were they not all full but we managed to get a nice big one with plenty of shade, close to the river Pentecost. – No 15 Brolga for those that know El Questro
Another change of plan
22 August contd
Left Kununurra a bit late so only got as far as Wyndham so spent the night in the caravan park there, where they boast they have Australia’s largest Boab tree in captivity – 25 metres in girth
We did get to watch an incredible sunset though, from the five rivers lookout at the top of the Bastion. The rivers King Pentecost, Durack, Forrest and Ord all meet and flow into the Cambridge Gulf here.
Left Kununurra a bit late so only got as far as Wyndham so spent the night in the caravan park there, where they boast they have Australia’s largest Boab tree in captivity – 25 metres in girth
We did get to watch an incredible sunset though, from the five rivers lookout at the top of the Bastion. The rivers King Pentecost, Durack, Forrest and Ord all meet and flow into the Cambridge Gulf here.
Sunday, August 22, 2010
Wyndham
22 August
Even though we were up early the sun was still very hot by 7am when we were packing up to leave.
Change of plan today – we decided seeing as we were so close to Kununurra we would go back there to stock up on supplies as we felt Wyndham would be too small. It also meant we had a valid excuse to go over the Ivanhoe Crossing
Fortunately Coles was open but the Telecentre and library were closed so we couldn’t go there to access the internet. However we discovered the Pump House had free wifi so we decided to have lunch there and catch up on emails etc there.
The plan is still to head to Wyndham and then on to Diggers Rest for the night. Then Gibb River Road
If all goes to plan there will be no more blog entries for quite some time as we will be very much out of range
Even though we were up early the sun was still very hot by 7am when we were packing up to leave.
Change of plan today – we decided seeing as we were so close to Kununurra we would go back there to stock up on supplies as we felt Wyndham would be too small. It also meant we had a valid excuse to go over the Ivanhoe Crossing
Fortunately Coles was open but the Telecentre and library were closed so we couldn’t go there to access the internet. However we discovered the Pump House had free wifi so we decided to have lunch there and catch up on emails etc there.
The plan is still to head to Wyndham and then on to Diggers Rest for the night. Then Gibb River Road
If all goes to plan there will be no more blog entries for quite some time as we will be very much out of range
On the Road again
21 August
Up early to watch the sunrise over the hills and to farewell Bungle Bungle National Park. On the road again, back out along Spring Creek track and up through Turkey Creek on the Great Northern Highway towards Wyndham, passing over creeks with such obscure names as Cheese Tin and Dead Horse and listening to AM963 Warangary playing all the old favourite country and western songs.
We called in at The Grotto for lunch, hoping to have a swim in the pool after climbing down the 140 steps to reach it. Whilst the Grotto itself was pretty, the waterhole was certainly not conducive to swimming so we had to stay hot and sweaty. 
We turned off the Wyndham Road into the Parry Lagoons Nature Reserve along the historic Old Halls Creek Road which was built around 1894 by convict labour where we could still see the hand laid edging stones. 
Our camp for the night was the Mambi Island bush camp on the banks of the Ord river along the old Kununurra/Wyndham road.
We weren’t that far out of civilisation that we couldn’t tune into a radio station and catch up with the latest with the election.
Up early to watch the sunrise over the hills and to farewell Bungle Bungle National Park. On the road again, back out along Spring Creek track and up through Turkey Creek on the Great Northern Highway towards Wyndham, passing over creeks with such obscure names as Cheese Tin and Dead Horse and listening to AM963 Warangary playing all the old favourite country and western songs.
We called in at The Grotto for lunch, hoping to have a swim in the pool after climbing down the 140 steps to reach it. Whilst the Grotto itself was pretty, the waterhole was certainly not conducive to swimming so we had to stay hot and sweaty.
We turned off the Wyndham Road into the Parry Lagoons Nature Reserve along the historic Old Halls Creek Road which was built around 1894 by convict labour where we could still see the hand laid edging stones.
Our camp for the night was the Mambi Island bush camp on the banks of the Ord river along the old Kununurra/Wyndham road.
We weren’t that far out of civilisation that we couldn’t tune into a radio station and catch up with the latest with the election.
The Beehives
20 August
Because there is so much to see here and we didn't get to cover it on the first day we decided to stay a day longer than initially planned.
What an amazing day today. Arose before the sun was up and drove to Cathedral Gorge as the sun was rising. The colours on the sides of the hills were magnificent.
We were first into the Cathedral so we had it all to ourselves to enjoy and experience the grandeur and the sounds within it.
Next we went on to the Piccaninny Gorge lookout which overlooked the Piccaninny creek bed and the incredible dome shaped formations which we walked amongst on the Domes walk to return to the car park.
We had already by now decided that a flight over it all might be an option for us so we went via the airport to check it out. That is how we came to spend some of our children’s inheritance on an extravagance that was well worth it. First of all we decided the flights were too expensive, then we decided we would do the cheapest one – 18 mins for $205 but then when they showed us where the flights went we decided to opt for the 30 minute flight for $295. We flew right over the whole area in an open sided helicopter. We did feel decidedly insecure at times but it was an amazing experience.
A call in at the Parks Centre on the way past then back to camp for lunch and swelter. It was 42.9 degrees in the tent and 40 degrees outside in the shade. We didn’t do much in the afternoon in that heat except sit about and watch others roll into the campsite and fill it again.
Because there is so much to see here and we didn't get to cover it on the first day we decided to stay a day longer than initially planned.
What an amazing day today. Arose before the sun was up and drove to Cathedral Gorge as the sun was rising. The colours on the sides of the hills were magnificent.
We were first into the Cathedral so we had it all to ourselves to enjoy and experience the grandeur and the sounds within it.
Next we went on to the Piccaninny Gorge lookout which overlooked the Piccaninny creek bed and the incredible dome shaped formations which we walked amongst on the Domes walk to return to the car park.
We had already by now decided that a flight over it all might be an option for us so we went via the airport to check it out. That is how we came to spend some of our children’s inheritance on an extravagance that was well worth it. First of all we decided the flights were too expensive, then we decided we would do the cheapest one – 18 mins for $205 but then when they showed us where the flights went we decided to opt for the 30 minute flight for $295. We flew right over the whole area in an open sided helicopter. We did feel decidedly insecure at times but it was an amazing experience.
A call in at the Parks Centre on the way past then back to camp for lunch and swelter. It was 42.9 degrees in the tent and 40 degrees outside in the shade. We didn’t do much in the afternoon in that heat except sit about and watch others roll into the campsite and fill it again.
Exploring Bungle Bungle
19 August
A quick check of the neighbouring quiet zone (as opposed to the generator zone we were in) revealed some one was moving out from a shady spot so we packed up and moved. Unfortunately this took up a lot of the time in the morning so by the time we headed off for the walks it had started to get quite hot. However it is recommended to do the Echidna Chasm walk in the middle of the day to catch the sun throwing light through the chasm. We were there at the right time and so got some magnificent photos.
Because it was so hot we decided not to do any more walks and just go back to the campsite and relax. We walked up to the top of the hill behind the campsite to watch the sunset and to watch the changing colours on the hills opposite.
A quick check of the neighbouring quiet zone (as opposed to the generator zone we were in) revealed some one was moving out from a shady spot so we packed up and moved. Unfortunately this took up a lot of the time in the morning so by the time we headed off for the walks it had started to get quite hot. However it is recommended to do the Echidna Chasm walk in the middle of the day to catch the sun throwing light through the chasm. We were there at the right time and so got some magnificent photos.
Because it was so hot we decided not to do any more walks and just go back to the campsite and relax. We walked up to the top of the hill behind the campsite to watch the sunset and to watch the changing colours on the hills opposite.
Purnululu – Bungle Bungle
17, 18 August
After enjoying the longest we have stayed in any one place it was time to move on. Too much more to see and do. We did however do a little more sight-seeing around Kununurra before heading for the Bungle Bungle National Park.
We did also tend to some things in Kununurra the day before that were pressing, such as haircuts, minor repairs, tyre purchasing. We also spent some time touring some of the local places such as the Hoochery, the only Australian owned rum distillery and the Sandalwood factory.
We also treated ourselves to some local produce such as red papaya, mango, Boab chocolate and silver cobbler. For the uninitiated silver cobbler is the fancy name for Cat Fish. Believe it or not it was quite tasty washed down with some Houghton’s white classic.
On the way out of Kununurra we had a look at the Ivanhoe crossing (the old road to Wyndham) and watched a couple of cars venture over it. We decided seeing as we weren’t going that way at the moment we would give it a miss. We went over the Diversion Dam (the dam on the Ord river that forms Lake Kununurra, not to be confused with the other dam on the Ord that forms Lake Argyle) and stopped in the Lions Park at the base.
We stopped off at the Zebra gallery where we learnt about the Zebra rock, where it is mined, how old it is, and what beautiful pieces it can be made into. We also fed the fish (archer, cat and bream) and long necked turtles from the pontoon down on the lake.
Next stop a Police breathalysing in the middle of nowhere!! We were actually at Turkey Creek, a small dot on the map so it did seem a strange place to be breathalysed. There is a small aboriginal community there with an art gallery (Warmun), one of the four major Aboriginal Art Centres in the Kimberley, so we stopped off to look at the art there.
Our arrival into Punululu was quite dramatic. The sun was on its way down so was shining onto the escarpments giving them a stunning red hue.
By the time we reached the Kurrajong camp site in the northern section the sun had gone down so it was another one of those finding a campsite by torch light episodes. The site wasn’t too bad but there was limited shade and we were close to the drop toilet so every now and again the smell wafted our way.
After enjoying the longest we have stayed in any one place it was time to move on. Too much more to see and do. We did however do a little more sight-seeing around Kununurra before heading for the Bungle Bungle National Park.
We did also tend to some things in Kununurra the day before that were pressing, such as haircuts, minor repairs, tyre purchasing. We also spent some time touring some of the local places such as the Hoochery, the only Australian owned rum distillery and the Sandalwood factory.
We also treated ourselves to some local produce such as red papaya, mango, Boab chocolate and silver cobbler. For the uninitiated silver cobbler is the fancy name for Cat Fish. Believe it or not it was quite tasty washed down with some Houghton’s white classic.
On the way out of Kununurra we had a look at the Ivanhoe crossing (the old road to Wyndham) and watched a couple of cars venture over it. We decided seeing as we weren’t going that way at the moment we would give it a miss. We went over the Diversion Dam (the dam on the Ord river that forms Lake Kununurra, not to be confused with the other dam on the Ord that forms Lake Argyle) and stopped in the Lions Park at the base.
We stopped off at the Zebra gallery where we learnt about the Zebra rock, where it is mined, how old it is, and what beautiful pieces it can be made into. We also fed the fish (archer, cat and bream) and long necked turtles from the pontoon down on the lake.
Next stop a Police breathalysing in the middle of nowhere!! We were actually at Turkey Creek, a small dot on the map so it did seem a strange place to be breathalysed. There is a small aboriginal community there with an art gallery (Warmun), one of the four major Aboriginal Art Centres in the Kimberley, so we stopped off to look at the art there.
Our arrival into Punululu was quite dramatic. The sun was on its way down so was shining onto the escarpments giving them a stunning red hue.
By the time we reached the Kurrajong camp site in the northern section the sun had gone down so it was another one of those finding a campsite by torch light episodes. The site wasn’t too bad but there was limited shade and we were close to the drop toilet so every now and again the smell wafted our way.
Tuesday, August 17, 2010
Lake Argyle and Kununurra
Lake Argyle
16 August
Today we went on a tour with Triple J to Lake Argyle. It consisted of a trip on a boat down the Ord River to the dam on the lake 
Sadly there are a lot of bush fires burning in the area. Apparently these fires aren’t back burning either but deliberately lit. It is very sad to see the fires burning out of control and the beautiful views marred by smoke.
17 August
Still in Kununurra
We had planned to head to the Bungle Bungles today but there were a few repairs to carry out and sights to see in Kununurra such as the Hoochery Rum Distillery (eat your heart out Harry) and the Sandalwood factory.
We are heading off tomorrow though - first to the Bungle Bungles then to Wyndham and then the Gibb River road. There is no mobile phone coverage in any of these areas so there will be no more updates to the blog for a while. You will need to watch the spot to see where we are travelling.
16 August
Today we went on a tour with Triple J to Lake Argyle. It consisted of a trip on a boat down the Ord River to the dam on the lake
then after a visit to the Durack Homestead museum we returned to Kununurra by bus. The tour was very informative with explanations about the flora and fauna and extensive coverage of the history of the Ord river irrigation scheme and we were again treated to sightings of various different wildlife including a rock wallaby and fresh water crocs
The boat ride was an experience, especially through the narrow area where the water was flowing quite fast
Sadly there are a lot of bush fires burning in the area. Apparently these fires aren’t back burning either but deliberately lit. It is very sad to see the fires burning out of control and the beautiful views marred by smoke.
17 August
Still in Kununurra
We had planned to head to the Bungle Bungles today but there were a few repairs to carry out and sights to see in Kununurra such as the Hoochery Rum Distillery (eat your heart out Harry) and the Sandalwood factory.
We are heading off tomorrow though - first to the Bungle Bungles then to Wyndham and then the Gibb River road. There is no mobile phone coverage in any of these areas so there will be no more updates to the blog for a while. You will need to watch the spot to see where we are travelling.
Apologies for the limited content here now as the connection here in Kununura is not too hot
Sunday, August 15, 2010
WA at last
Kununurra 15 August
Up early (we hadn’t quite got used to the time difference) and on our bikes for our first bike ride. Hurrah, we didn’t drag the bikes along on this trip for no reason.
Fabulous ride, out through the irrigated farm land
where birds of prey circled over our heads and wallabies hopped out in front of us along the way. Margaret (West) would have loved it – nice and flat. Bit of a hard slog on the return journey though as we had to fight the winds.
Delicious alfresco breakfast under the cool shade of some nice big trees at the Ivanhoe coffee bar.
Rest of the day spent catching up on washing, shopping, internet again.
Up early (we hadn’t quite got used to the time difference) and on our bikes for our first bike ride. Hurrah, we didn’t drag the bikes along on this trip for no reason.
Fabulous ride, out through the irrigated farm land
where birds of prey circled over our heads and wallabies hopped out in front of us along the way. Margaret (West) would have loved it – nice and flat. Bit of a hard slog on the return journey though as we had to fight the winds.
Delicious alfresco breakfast under the cool shade of some nice big trees at the Ivanhoe coffee bar.
Rest of the day spent catching up on washing, shopping, internet again.
In the evening we drove up to Kelly’s Knob to watch the sun go down, a superb vantage point.
Mini Bungle Bungles in Keep River
14 August
The scenery in the Keep River Park was like mini bungle bungles
After packing up camp we headed back to the Gurrandalng campsite to do the walk from there. The walk was extremely picturesque with an abundance of bird life, pretty flowers and butterflies as we weaved through the incredible sandstone formations.
We did the walk to the top of Ginger’s Hill where we could see fires burning in the distance. It turned out that these fires were at the border crossing so we ended up driving through them later.
So our arrival into Western Australia and Kununurra was a bit delayed, even though we gained an hour and a half in the process.
We didn’t have to spend long at the quarantine station as we had already been warned about what we couldn’t bring into WA so had already devoured everything we couldn’t bring in. Unfortunately though we still had our rubbish from our camping the night before as we hadn’t managed to find a rubbish bin along the way to dispose of it.
By the time we arrived in Kununurra the caravan parks were filling up but we did manage to get a couple of spots in the shade at the Big4 Ivanhoe Village Caravan Resort.
Sunset drinks and dinner at the exclusive Pump House restaurant on the lake to celebrate finally reaching WA and exactly a month after we left home.
The scenery in the Keep River Park was like mini bungle bungles
After packing up camp we headed back to the Gurrandalng campsite to do the walk from there. The walk was extremely picturesque with an abundance of bird life, pretty flowers and butterflies as we weaved through the incredible sandstone formations.
We did the walk to the top of Ginger’s Hill where we could see fires burning in the distance. It turned out that these fires were at the border crossing so we ended up driving through them later.
We lunched at Cockatoo Lagoon still in the Keep River NP and when we returned to the car to our dismay we discovered we had a flat tyre
So our arrival into Western Australia and Kununurra was a bit delayed, even though we gained an hour and a half in the process.
We didn’t have to spend long at the quarantine station as we had already been warned about what we couldn’t bring into WA so had already devoured everything we couldn’t bring in. Unfortunately though we still had our rubbish from our camping the night before as we hadn’t managed to find a rubbish bin along the way to dispose of it.
By the time we arrived in Kununurra the caravan parks were filling up but we did manage to get a couple of spots in the shade at the Big4 Ivanhoe Village Caravan Resort.
Sunset drinks and dinner at the exclusive Pump House restaurant on the lake to celebrate finally reaching WA and exactly a month after we left home.
Timber Creek and Boabs
13 August
Late departure from Timber Creek as quite a bit of time was spent on the internet updating blogging, emailing etc.
Sight-seeing around Timber Creek included spotting crocodiles down in Timber Creek, checking out the Police Museum, driving down to Policeman’s Point where Timber Creek meets with the Victoria River and driving along a tourist road that took us along a ridge that overlooked the Timber Creek township and the Victoria River. Our last stop before heading to the Keep River National Park was the Gregory Tree. Some very interesting facts about Gregory were on display at the tree.
The boabs which are a common feature around this area are quite fascinating the way they grow into such weird shapes 
Late departure from Timber Creek as quite a bit of time was spent on the internet updating blogging, emailing etc.
Sight-seeing around Timber Creek included spotting crocodiles down in Timber Creek, checking out the Police Museum, driving down to Policeman’s Point where Timber Creek meets with the Victoria River and driving along a tourist road that took us along a ridge that overlooked the Timber Creek township and the Victoria River. Our last stop before heading to the Keep River National Park was the Gregory Tree. Some very interesting facts about Gregory were on display at the tree.
He inscribed this Boab with the dates that they were camped there.
Timber Creek was named thus because of the timber they used from the area to repair the ship the Tom Tough that was damaged when it came from Brisbane with supplies.
The boabs which are a common feature around this area are quite fascinating the way they grow into such weird shapes
We had planned to spend the night at the Gurrandalng campsite in the Keep River National Park but unfortunately the campsite was only small and there weren’t any spare camping spots so we pressed on to the Jarnem campsite further inside the park
Friday, August 13, 2010
Gorgeous Gorges and more dust
12 August
Another pretty campsite, surrounded by red escarpments on either side and the Victoria River just below.
What spectacular scenery today. We thought the area around the Victoria River was spectacular but there was more to come. Each day seems to bring more surprises. 
Next onto the dusty Buchanan Highway past more spectacular red cliffs and escarpment that looked even more outstanding under the beautiful clear blue sky.. We lunched at Jasper Gorge then back tracked to the turn off to the Tuwakan track that goes west across to the Bullita access track to Bullita Homestead. The Tuwakan track was described as 20km with an estimated time of 3hours to traverse. We soon found out why. Talk about rocky road
Another pretty campsite, surrounded by red escarpments on either side and the Victoria River just below.
What spectacular scenery today. We thought the area around the Victoria River was spectacular but there was more to come. Each day seems to bring more surprises.
We began the day with a drive down to the boat ramp at the Victoria river, then a hike along the escarpment walk up to the lookout that overlooked the river and the other escarpments. Here we chatted to a couple and their two children from Tasmania that have been travelling for14 months and even had a baby along the way in Alice Springs!!!!!
Next onto the dusty Buchanan Highway past more spectacular red cliffs and escarpment that looked even more outstanding under the beautiful clear blue sky.. We lunched at Jasper Gorge then back tracked to the turn off to the Tuwakan track that goes west across to the Bullita access track to Bullita Homestead. The Tuwakan track was described as 20km with an estimated time of 3hours to traverse. We soon found out why. Talk about rocky road
Believe it or not - THIS is the road!!!!
but it only took us half the time they recommended and we only sustained minor damage, no shredded tyres fortunately.We were going to camp at the Bullita campground but we found it distinctly uninviting so we headed north to Timber Creek for the night after checking out the historic Bullita Homestead.
Finally we leave Kakadu
11 August
We have camped at many varied and different campsites, some of them bush and some of them commercial, the bush sites are definitely the nicest and if we find one that isn't overcrowded it is a bonus. This is how we set up at the Gunlom campsite
Back out onto the Kakadu Highway with quick stops at Yurmikmik and the Mary River Roadhouse then on to Pine Creek to check out the Railway Station museum, the Miners Park and the Pine Creek repeater station – the oldest surviving prefabricated structure in the NT which is now the National Trust Museum.
Next stop Katherine for refuelling and lunch by the Katherine river at the low level bridge, then back on to the Savannah Way on the Victoria River Highway to Gregory National Park and the Victoria River Roadhouse for the night.
There has been an abundance of pretty flowers dotting the countryside one in particular that is quite striking is the turkey bush.
We have camped at many varied and different campsites, some of them bush and some of them commercial, the bush sites are definitely the nicest and if we find one that isn't overcrowded it is a bonus. This is how we set up at the Gunlom campsite
Back out onto the Kakadu Highway with quick stops at Yurmikmik and the Mary River Roadhouse then on to Pine Creek to check out the Railway Station museum, the Miners Park and the Pine Creek repeater station – the oldest surviving prefabricated structure in the NT which is now the National Trust Museum.
Next stop Katherine for refuelling and lunch by the Katherine river at the low level bridge, then back on to the Savannah Way on the Victoria River Highway to Gregory National Park and the Victoria River Roadhouse for the night.
There has been an abundance of pretty flowers dotting the countryside one in particular that is quite striking is the turkey bush.
Still in Kakadu
10 August
Today we moved further south in the park to the Gunlom area. Although the campsite was nearly 50 km off the bitumen it was obviously a popular site. We were very surprised to find there was actually a kiosk there, so we treated ourselves to an ice cream!
Today we moved further south in the park to the Gunlom area. Although the campsite was nearly 50 km off the bitumen it was obviously a popular site. We were very surprised to find there was actually a kiosk there, so we treated ourselves to an ice cream!
We found out why the place was so popular, not only was it one of the spots featured in the movies “Crocodile Dundee” and “We off the Never Never” it was also a top spot. A magical combination of waterfall and serene plunge pool where we had a picnic lunch and swim followed by a steep climb to the top of the waterfall with sweeping views of the southern part of the park and more refreshing plunge pools where we had another swim to cool off from the hot climb.
Tuesday, August 10, 2010
More Crocs and Rock Art
9 August
Up at 5:30 this morning to catch the sunrise Yellow Water Cruise, where we were treated to a display of an incredible abundance of bird life,
plus more crocodiles at closer quarters this time and mobile what’s more.
The cruise included a stop along the way to watch a spectacular sunrise and breakfast at the lodge at Cooinda
The rest of the day was spent exploring the Nourlangie area, looking at the rock art there,
The cruise included a stop along the way to watch a spectacular sunrise and breakfast at the lodge at Cooinda
The rest of the day was spent exploring the Nourlangie area, looking at the rock art there,
climbing up to a couple of look outs to enjoy the views, one over the Anbangbang waterhole that was so low we could hardly see it and the other Gunwarddehwardde lookout that looked over to the cliffs of Arnhem land
We couldn’t leave Kakadu without checking out Jabaru. Nothing much of interest to us there except a refuel, but also the Ranger Uranium mine just down the road. We drove out to have a sticky beak. What an eye opener..... It is a massive hole in the ground with huge piles of the excavated rock and dirt around it.
We couldn’t leave Kakadu without checking out Jabaru. Nothing much of interest to us there except a refuel, but also the Ranger Uranium mine just down the road. We drove out to have a sticky beak. What an eye opener..... It is a massive hole in the ground with huge piles of the excavated rock and dirt around it.
Kakadu
8 August
We decided to head off early from the campsite to do some sight-seeing before it got too hot. First stop Ubirr to the Aboriginal Rock Art Sights,
next, delicious French pastries at the Border store for morning tea then off on the Guluyambi boat cruise on the East Alligator River, where a local aboriginal guide gave us an insight into their culture, mythology, the river’s food chain, traditional uses of plants and animals and bush survival skills. We disembarked on the Arnhem Land side of the river where we were treated to a display of traditional hunting and gathering implements. We were also treated to numerous sightings of crocodiles along the way.
We lunched at the picnic area at the East Alligator River and then headed back to the camp site to pack up the trailers to shift camp.
We moved to the Mardugal camp site on the souh side of the park just off the Kakakadu Highway where we spent two nights, less mozzies at this camp site, much less dry and dusty and more shade.
After setting up camp we headed out to do some exploring of that area. This included a drive down the road to Jim Jim Creek where we discovered an old house hidden in the trees. We found out later that it was the original Cooiinda location and the home of Judy Opitz of the “English Rose of Kakadu” fame
We decided to head off early from the campsite to do some sight-seeing before it got too hot. First stop Ubirr to the Aboriginal Rock Art Sights,
next, delicious French pastries at the Border store for morning tea then off on the Guluyambi boat cruise on the East Alligator River, where a local aboriginal guide gave us an insight into their culture, mythology, the river’s food chain, traditional uses of plants and animals and bush survival skills. We disembarked on the Arnhem Land side of the river where we were treated to a display of traditional hunting and gathering implements. We were also treated to numerous sightings of crocodiles along the way.
We lunched at the picnic area at the East Alligator River and then headed back to the camp site to pack up the trailers to shift camp.
We moved to the Mardugal camp site on the souh side of the park just off the Kakakadu Highway where we spent two nights, less mozzies at this camp site, much less dry and dusty and more shade.
After setting up camp we headed out to do some exploring of that area. This included a drive down the road to Jim Jim Creek where we discovered an old house hidden in the trees. We found out later that it was the original Cooiinda location and the home of Judy Opitz of the “English Rose of Kakadu” fame
Off to Kakadu today
7 August
Drove in along the Arnhem Highway, stopping off at the Aurora Kakadu Hotel first, to purchase our recently introduced compulsory Park Passes and check out the South Alligator River.
Next stop the Bowali Visitor Centre to pick up information about the park. We realised that there was a lot to see and do in Kakadu and so decided to stay a few nights to do it justice.
First night we opted for the Merl campground in the East Alligator region. A very nice campground but unfortunately the mozzies thought so too.
Drove in along the Arnhem Highway, stopping off at the Aurora Kakadu Hotel first, to purchase our recently introduced compulsory Park Passes and check out the South Alligator River.
Next stop the Bowali Visitor Centre to pick up information about the park. We realised that there was a lot to see and do in Kakadu and so decided to stay a few nights to do it justice.
First night we opted for the Merl campground in the East Alligator region. A very nice campground but unfortunately the mozzies thought so too.
Darwin
6 August
Lay day today to catch up on a few things, such as shopping, voting, and a bit of maintenance. The Fairbairn camper had to have some metal plates attached to the frame.
We had a brief catch up with Tracey over lunch at the Casuarina shopping centre before heading off into the city to vote.
Skyped the McKellars, Ginetyck and Beehive in the evening so Bibi got her Granma fix that will have to last a while.
Had difficulty finding a restaurant to dine that night that wasn’t already booked up. Tried a couple of restaurants in Mitchell Street that Tracey had recommended, however, it would appear that Mitchell street in Darwin is the place to be on a Friday night so we opted for a little Turkish restaurant just around the corner.
We were surprised to see how much Darwin had grown since we were last here. It is now a busy modern thriving city. We were entertained by continual flyovers of military aircraft due to tri-nation manoeuvres.
We went to bed smelling like kippers due to the fact that there had been a grass fire in the paddock behind the camp site and everything ended up covered in black smuts.
Lay day today to catch up on a few things, such as shopping, voting, and a bit of maintenance. The Fairbairn camper had to have some metal plates attached to the frame.
These plates are intended to spread the load of a steel stay that holds the cantilevered bed up. The repair kit arrived without prior notice from Ultimate, at their Paddo address after we had left and so they had it sent on to the Katherine Post Office where we picked it up en route. The adhesive had to be left to cure for 24 hours so there was an interesting sleeping arrangement in the Fairbairn camp that night
We had a brief catch up with Tracey over lunch at the Casuarina shopping centre before heading off into the city to vote.
Skyped the McKellars, Ginetyck and Beehive in the evening so Bibi got her Granma fix that will have to last a while.
Had difficulty finding a restaurant to dine that night that wasn’t already booked up. Tried a couple of restaurants in Mitchell Street that Tracey had recommended, however, it would appear that Mitchell street in Darwin is the place to be on a Friday night so we opted for a little Turkish restaurant just around the corner.
We were surprised to see how much Darwin had grown since we were last here. It is now a busy modern thriving city. We were entertained by continual flyovers of military aircraft due to tri-nation manoeuvres.
We went to bed smelling like kippers due to the fact that there had been a grass fire in the paddock behind the camp site and everything ended up covered in black smuts.
Thursday, August 5, 2010
Litchfield
4 August
Yesterday and the day before were flying fox days, today and yesterday were cockatoo days.
We then parked our trailers in camping spots at the Sandy Creek camp ground to secure a spot, before heading off on the tourist trail to explore the other areas of the park. First stop Florence falls, which was packed, we found out later that the Wangi Falls plunge pool was closed and that was probably why the pool at Florence falls was so busy. The pools are closed when there is a likely hood of crocs being present. Buley Rockholes was just as packed. Tabletop Swamp and the Tolmer Falls weren’t as busy, probably because there was no waterhole to swim in.
Our day started with a walk and dip in the cool pool at the base of the Tjaynera Falls
before setting off to Darwin via the dirt road out of Litchfield via Berry Springs.
Yesterday and the day before were flying fox days, today and yesterday were cockatoo days.
At the thermal pools in Mataranka they have installed very tall water sprinklers to spray above the tree canopy onto the grevilleas to discourage the small red flying foxes so they don’t wee on you. There was also a colony of fruit bats beside the Katherine River.
Yesterday morning we were treated to a fly over of squawking black cockatoos at Chris and Tracey’s place and this morning at Hayes Creek, before heading off to Litchfield, flocks flew over and landed in a nearby eucalypt to feast on the seeds from inside the gumnuts.
We entered Litchfield National Park through the Southern access road, the non tourist 4wd end, definitely the better part of the park to visit.
Slow going but well worth it. We lunched at Surprise Creek, having clambered above and had a swim in the refreshing pool below the falls.
We entered Litchfield National Park through the Southern access road, the non tourist 4wd end, definitely the better part of the park to visit.
Slow going but well worth it. We lunched at Surprise Creek, having clambered above and had a swim in the refreshing pool below the falls.
The display of magnetic termite mounds were impressive here too.
These mounds are also known as compass mounds as they face north south.
These mounds are also known as compass mounds as they face north south.
We crossed/drove down the Reynolds River. The Fairbairn trailer looked the boat part there.
We then parked our trailers in camping spots at the Sandy Creek camp ground to secure a spot, before heading off on the tourist trail to explore the other areas of the park. First stop Florence falls, which was packed, we found out later that the Wangi Falls plunge pool was closed and that was probably why the pool at Florence falls was so busy. The pools are closed when there is a likely hood of crocs being present. Buley Rockholes was just as packed. Tabletop Swamp and the Tolmer Falls weren’t as busy, probably because there was no waterhole to swim in.
5 August
Our day started with a walk and dip in the cool pool at the base of the Tjaynera Falls
before setting off to Darwin via the dirt road out of Litchfield via Berry Springs.
Couldn't resist this shot of a non magnetic termite mound on the way out.
We did stop off and look at the popular Wangi Falls on the way and lunched at Walker Creek.
Now camped at FreeSpirit Resort in Darwin – a bit of a shock to the system after the solitude we have enjoyed in the bush for the past few weeks. Mingled with the crowds at the markets at Mindil Beach and were treated with a magnificent sunset on the beach
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